A Mediterranean Holiday

Alassio, a town on the Italian Riviera

In first grade, Marie-Juliette made a new friend.  Her name was Claudia.  She was a pretty little girl, with hazel, almond-shaped eyes, a pointed chin and a pixie face.  One day Claudia’s mother approached me as we were leaving school.  She invited Marie-Juliette to play that afternoon.  Her name was Sandra and we became fast friends.  Sandra was attractive, intelligent and had a good sense of humor.  She also took time to get to know me.

As those of you know, who have lived abroad, not everyone is open to a friend from another country.  Language is a big problem.  I could basically make myself understood in Italian, but I couldn’t effectively debate abortion or capital punishment.  I had neither the vocabulary nor the sense of syntax and grammar to speak with vehemence.  Some people probably considered me mentally slow.  I sometimes felt reduced to a child-like state. 

Sandra and Marie-Juliette,  Claudia and me.

A Picnic with Claudia, Renato(father) and Sandra.

Marie-Juliette and Claudia were best friends.  They played hours of Barbies and School.  Our two families went on picnics and enjoyed one alpine vacation in the Dolomites with a group of friends.  I’ll write about that trip in a later posting.  Several summers, Marie-Juliette was invited to accompany her friend to Alassio, a town on the Italian Riviera, where Sandra and Renato had a summer house.

The girls in Alassio when they were 6 or 7.

We drove down to pick Marie-Juliette up at the end of her visit and spent an idyllic weekend.  From the village of Alassio, a narrow road zigzagged up the hill along walls dripping with fuchsia bougainvillea.  Sandra’s villa had served as a small hotel for English guests back at the turn of the century. (1890’s -think A Room with a View). There was a parlor, library, and dining room.  Upstairs were 10 bedrooms.  As I remember ours had a little sitting room attached. A middle-aged couple lived on the premises keeping things going, cleaning and cooking.  A wide terrace wrapped around the house with mature, shade trees and a profusion of flowers. The Mediterranean sparkled below. 

Fuchsia Bougainvillea

This is not Sandra and Renato's house but this photo gives you the feeling of the area.

A day in Alassio was delightful.  We would have coffee and rolls at 8 or 9.  Then we got ready for the beach.  Sandra had a cabana where her bathing suits and beach necessities were kept.  A cabana boy kept it neat and swept out.  He prepared our chaises on the beach.  We spent the morning swimming, reading and lying around while the kids played in the water or went boating.

The girls a few years later on a boat.

At 2:30 we went up to the villa for a 3 o’clock lunch.  I remember  a delectable dish of spaghetti with a fresh tomato and basil sauce.  It was perfect on a warm afternoon.  At 4 or 5 we changed and went down into the town for a passagiatta (walk) and a chiacchierata (chit-chat) with acquaintances and friends.  Maybe we’d stop at the Cafè Roma where Hemingway hung out.  Across the street is a wall that is covered with 550 tiles signed by famous people.  Back in the 50’s Alassio was a hideaway for luminaries. The story goes that Hemingway was sitting in the cafe with an artist friend, inspecting the ugly wall across the street that enclosed the public gardens.  Together they decided to hang some tiles in the dead of night to decorate the wall in hopes that the town dignitaries wouldn’t object.  After that a slew of artists hung tiles signed by famous people.

Cafè Roma

The Wall of Decorative Tiles (Il Muretto di Alassio)

In the evening after our walk or shopping expedition we would dine under the trees. I remember grilled pork chops brushed with olive oil and sprinkled with garlic and herbs. They were accompanied by thick slices of eggplant which were similarly dressed.  I’ve tried to replicate this dish but it is never quite as succulent.  I think I’m missing the flavors of the Mediterranean, the gentle sea breezes, the smooth wine and the quiet murmurings and laughter that made for a perfect night. 

Spaghetti con pomodoro fresco e basilico

For 4 people:

3/4 lb.  Spaghetti.

3/4 lb.  Beautiful summer tomatoes  

2 Tablespoons  Finely chopped onion

1-2   Garlic cloves

5 Tablespoons  Extra virgin olive oil

8-10   Large basil leaves.

Salt and Pepper

1. Put a large pan of water on to boil for the pasta.
2. Cut  the tomatoes, remove the seeds, white and green stems. Then cut in small chunks.  Chop the onion.  Chop the basil. 
3. Pour olive oil into a large skillet, add the onion and cook for a minute or two.
4. Add the tomatoes and the garlic.  Add a ladle of pasta water and cover.  Cook the tomatoes about 5 minutes.
5. Salt the pasta water well and cook the pasta al dente.  
6. Drain the pasta saving one ladle of water.
7. Fish out the garlic.
8. Add the drained pasta to the tomatoes along with the ladle of reserved pasta water
9. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and 3/4 of the chopped basil. Toss the pasta and tomatoes.
10. Fill 4 pasta bowls and sprinkle with the remaining chopped basil.