When living in Saint-Nom-La-Bretèche, I participated in two women’s associations. One was a local group of French women who wanted to enjoy the Paris art scene. A lecture concerning a current exhibit was followed by a visit to a museum. I particularly remember a visit to the Grand Palais to view a Manet exhibit. Nobody from my neighborhood wanted to drive, so I volunteered. Subsequently I learned that these French ladies dreaded driving into the city and particularly around the Arc de Triomphe. They had to depend on an intrepid American.
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| L'Arc de Triomphe |
As you can see in the picture, twelve streets and avenues form the spokes around the monument. At rush hour, entering and exiting the roundabout can be tricky. You need a lot of chutzpa and daring-do! The only rule that applies is “priorité à droite” which means that the car to your right has the “right-of-way”. If the guy on the left hits you, it will be his fault! You enter into the fray aiming your car in the desired direction and staring-down the guy on the right.
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| Le Grand Palais - an exhibit on Cuba. |
I also joined the American Women’s Club. The theme of the first meeting in the fall was “Bloom Where You’re Planted.” The discussion was about how to enjoy your stay in Paris. There were suggestions for French language classes, family activities, restaurants and shopping tips. Some women were very lonely, especially if they spoke no French. Their husbands were busy at work, their children at school and venturing out on Paris streets was frightening. And of course they missed peanut butter, Oreos, Miracle Whip and their favorite soap opera.
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| The Ritz |
I didn’t attend many meetings but I did become involved in a fundraiser. I don’t remember the worthy cause. But I do remember that I was responsible for soliciting donations from luxury hotels and restaurants: for example a free night at the Ritz or a free diner at Maxime’s. I traipsed into the George V and Le Meurice and asked to speak to the manager. Oh boy! If looks could kill…or at least wither… those directeurs d’hôtel were a scary lot.
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| The formal dining room at Le Meurice Hotel. |
I also marched into Taillevent, La Tour d’Argent and Lasserre(luxury restaurants). As I remember the gérants de restaurant were a little bit more friendly.
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| La Tour d'Argent restaurant: Part of the charm is the view along the Seine and Notre-Dame cathedral. |
After one difficult morning, I stopped at a café and treated myself to a Croque-Monsieur and un petit blanc. (béchamel, ham and cheese sandwich and a glass of white wine).
Croque-Monsieur
Turn oven to 450º
Ingredients for 2 sandwiches:
Béchamel Sauce
4 slices thick sliced bread
2 slices ham (Black Forest)
Grated Gruyère Cheese
Butter
1. Make a béchamel sauce: Melt 2 Tablespoons butter, add 2 Tablespoons flour, stir vigorously, add a shake of salt and a shake of pepper, slowly add 1 cup milk continuing to stir vigorously. Boil 1 minute continuing to stir. Add a shake of nutmeg. Voilà!
2. Butter a baking sheet. Place two slices of bread on the sheet. Smear with béchamel sauce. Sprinkle with gruyère cheese. Add a slice of ham. Fold neatly to fit. Smear with béchamel. Sprinkle with gruyère. Top with another slice of bread. Smear with béchamel and sprinkle with cheese.
3. Slide into the oven for 10-15 minutes until brown and bubbly.
To make a Croque-Madame. Top the sandwich with a fried egg!
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